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It smells like a tradition to me
This new-year's day surfing rocks. Last year we got hail pinging off the boards at Puttsborough. This year down at Woolly we got awesome waves: clean, big but not silly, no wind, and spaced wide apart. Downside? Duck-diving those big walls of trundling grey water is like being hit in the face with a refrigerator. They're heavy and man, ice-cream head like woah.