andygates: (surf)
andygates ([personal profile] andygates) wrote2008-01-01 09:08 pm
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It smells like a tradition to me

This new-year's day surfing rocks.  Last year we got hail pinging off the boards at Puttsborough.  This year down at Woolly we got awesome waves: clean, big but not silly, no wind, and spaced wide apart.  Downside?  Duck-diving those big walls of trundling grey water is like being hit in the face with a refrigerator.  They're heavy and man, ice-cream head like woah.