Light

[andygates]

New year surf was all about the light: frost-covered sand glowing blue in the dawn dune shadows; a low, clear, golden winter sun picking all the detail out of the cliffs; bar after bar of wave-machine perfect foam like regiments of butterscotch, spray glittering off the top of each breaker, rainbows following after. And then, once hands were unable to grip the board any more, it was all about steam and shivering.  Hot chocolate and gingerbread and pasties, and plumes of steam from de-suited surfers suddenly reminded that the air was at freezing, even if the water was relatively balmy.

Comments

[teahisme.livejournal.com]

Sounds beautiful. I wish you no lurgies post new years day swim. Out of curiousity, what was the water temp?

[andygates.livejournal.com]

Average at this time of year is about 8-10 degrees. Definitely full-gear weather, but nothing bonkers. Air and ground temp remain flat zero - there's ice under my washing line where the suit's drips have frozen.

Lurgy? The sea gives no lurgy: the sea is Magic Healing. Great for skin and angry piercings...

[teahisme.livejournal.com]

Yes. I agree about the sea. It is the air afterwards I am unconvinced by. I love the ocean. Then again my favorite vactaion is a hot beach, a shady umbrella, a pile of books and drinks alcoholic and otherwise, with sunscreen spf 45 or better of course. One of the best things about living with my father briefly in Charelston South Carolina was going to the beach every morning he went surfing before school or work. I haven't ever tried this wet suit busniess. I just can't imagine needing to swim where it is cold enough to need one. :)

[andygates.livejournal.com]

...whereas I'm always weirded out by the sight of surfers in anything other than full rubber. Blue Crush gives me monstrous cognitive dissonance.

But yes, the air afterwards was... tepid. :)